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How to Paint the Giant Spider from WizKids Deep Cuts

How to Paint the Giant Spider from WizKids Deep Cuts

By WizKids Store | Published: 2026-09-15

Category: How-to Guides

Paint a WizKids Deep Cuts Giant Scorpion as a giant spider with this step-by-step guide. Prime, base, drybrush, and seal for a table-ready monster.

Quick answer

Use a WizKids Deep Cuts Giant Scorpion as a giant spider. It comes primed and ready to paint out of the box, so you can skip priming and go straight to base coats, drybrushing, and sealing. Finish with a matte varnish to protect the paint for tabletop play.

You want a giant spider on the table tonight, not next month. The fastest route is to start with a miniature that is already primed and ready to paint. WizKids Deep Cuts miniatures fit that job: they come with highly detailed figures, primed and ready to paint out of the box, and include deep cuts for easier painting.

This guide uses the WizKids Deep Cuts: Giant Scorpion as the base for a giant spider. The eight legs, segmented body, and raised profile read clearly as an arachnid once you paint it. Follow the steps in order, and check the common mistake at each stage so you do not have to strip and restart.

WizKids Deep Cuts: Giant Scorpion
WizKids Deep Cuts: Giant Scorpion

What you need before you start

Gather a few basic supplies: a small detail brush, a medium drybrush, a cup of water, a paper towel, and acrylic paints in black, dark brown, mid-brown, and a pale grey or bone color. You do not need an airbrush or a wet palette. The Deep Cuts Giant Scorpion is already primed, so you can paint straight from the pack.

Work in a well-lit area with a drop cloth or scrap paper. Keep your paint thin and build layers instead of loading the brush. If you thin paint too much, it pools in the deep cuts; if you use it straight from the pot, it can fill in the detail. Aim for a consistency like skim milk.

  • Check the miniature for any mold lines or bent legs before you paint; straighten gently with warm water if needed.
  • Do not prime the miniature again unless you see bare plastic; the factory primer is your base.

Step 1: Base coat the whole spider

Load a medium brush with dark brown or near-black paint and cover the entire spider. Work the paint into the deep cuts and around the leg joints. Do not worry about neatness at this stage; this coat creates a shadow base that makes later layers pop.

Let the base coat dry completely before moving on. If you rush, the next layer will tear the wet paint and leave streaks. A hair dryer on low can speed this up, but keep it at least six inches away so the plastic does not soften.

  • Common mistake: leaving bare grey primer showing in the recesses. Check from underneath and between the legs.
  • Checkpoint: the miniature should look uniformly dark with no shiny plastic patches.

Step 2: Drybrush the body and legs

Dip a drybrush into mid-brown, wipe most of the paint off on a paper towel, then lightly drag the brush across the spider's back, leg segments, and head. The paint should catch only the raised areas. Build two or three light passes rather than one heavy coat.

Switch to a pale grey or bone color for a second, lighter drybrush on the highest points: the top of the abdomen, the leg joints, and the tips of the fangs. This creates contrast and helps the spider read from across the table.

  • Common mistake: too much paint on the brush. If you see streaks instead of a soft highlight, wipe more off.
  • Checkpoint: the raised textures are visibly lighter than the recesses.

Step 3: Add color to the markings

Use a fine detail brush to paint a simple marking on the spider's back. A red hourglass, a pale stripe, or a few dots in a contrasting color all work. Keep the shape bold and simple; tiny intricate patterns blur at table distance and take longer than they are worth.

If you want a more natural look, paint the fangs a pale bone color and add a thin dark line along the leg joints. You can also paint the eyes with a bright color like orange or green to draw attention to the head.

  • Common mistake: using thick paint for markings. Thin it slightly so the edges stay crisp.
  • Checkpoint: the marking is visible from three feet away without squinting.

Step 4: Seal and finish

Once the paint is fully dry, apply a matte varnish to protect the miniature during play. A brush-on varnish gives you more control than a spray, especially around the legs. Let it cure according to the product instructions before you handle the spider.

If you want a glossy look for the eyes or fangs, add a tiny dot of gloss varnish after the matte coat. This small step adds life to the face without making the whole miniature shiny.

  • Common mistake: handling the miniature before the varnish cures, which leaves fingerprints in the finish.
  • Checkpoint: the surface is dry to the touch and the paint no longer rubs off.

Step-by-step painting process

  1. Prepare your workspace: Set out a detail brush, a drybrush, water, paper towel, and acrylic paints in black, dark brown, mid-brown, and pale grey. Work in good light. Checkpoint: all supplies are within reach so you do not have to stop mid-step.
  2. Base coat the entire miniature: Cover the spider with dark brown or near-black paint, working into the deep cuts and leg joints. Let it dry completely. Common mistake: leaving bare primer in the recesses. Check underneath and between legs.
  3. Drybrush mid-brown over the raised areas: Wipe most of the paint off the drybrush, then lightly drag it across the back, legs, and head. Build two or three light passes. Checkpoint: raised textures are visibly lighter than the recesses.
  4. Add a lighter drybrush highlight: Use pale grey or bone on the highest points: top of the abdomen, leg joints, and fang tips. Common mistake: too much paint on the brush. If you see streaks, wipe more off.
  5. Paint a simple marking: Use a fine detail brush to add a red hourglass, pale stripe, or dots on the back. Keep the shape bold and simple. Checkpoint: the marking is visible from three feet away.
  6. Seal with matte varnish: Apply a brush-on matte varnish once the paint is fully dry. Let it cure before handling. Common mistake: handling before the varnish cures, which leaves fingerprints.

Product facts

  • WizKids Deep Cuts: Giant Scorpion: WizKids Deep Cuts come with highly detailed figures, primed and ready to paint out of the box. These fantastic miniatures include deep cuts for easier painting. You can skip priming and start painting immediately, and the deep cuts make drybrushing and detail work easier.
  • D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures: Oni Female: Dungeons & Dragons Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures come with highly-detailed figures, primed and ready to paint out of the box. These fantastic miniatures include deep cuts for easier painting. If you want a different monster for the same painting process, this line offers the same primed, ready-to-paint convenience.
  • Pathfinder Deep Cuts: Huge Air Elemental Lord: Pathfinder Battles Deep Cuts come with highly-detailed figures, primed and ready to paint out of the box. These fantastic miniatures include deep cuts for easier painting. Another option if you want a larger miniature with the same easy painting prep.

A giant spider does not need a complex paint job to look good on the table. Start with a primed WizKids Deep Cuts miniature, build up layers, and seal it for play. The steps above work for any similarly sized monster, so you can reuse the process on your next miniature.

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