How to Repair a Broken Miniature: Glue, Pin, and Repaint

Quick answer

For a clean break on a plastic or resin miniature, use cyanoacrylate (super) glue with a tiny drop on each surface, hold for 30 seconds, and let it cure for 24 hours. If the joint will bear weight or the piece is thin, pin it with a paperclip or brass rod and drill before gluing. After repair, touch up the seam with matching paint. Stop if the break is in a fragile, thin area or the piece is a pre-painted collectible you cannot risk damaging—consider a replacement figure instead.

A snapped sword, a fallen off arm, or a cracked base can sideline your favorite miniature. Whether it is a D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures figure you painted yourself or a pre-painted figure like the D&D Icons of the Realms Premium Figures: Dragonborn Female Paladin, a break does not have to mean the end. With the right approach, most clean breaks can be repaired at home in under an hour, plus curing time.

This guide walks through the symptom, likely cause, and corrective action for the most common miniature breaks. You will learn when gluing alone is enough, when to pin, and when to stop and choose another option. We will also cover repainting the repaired area so your fix blends in.

Diagnose the break before you glue

The first step in repairing miniatures is to identify the type of break. A clean snap—where the two surfaces fit back together with no missing material—is the easiest to fix. A shear break leaves a rough edge, and a crush break has missing or deformed plastic. Look at the material: Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures are primed and ready to paint, so they are typically a hard plastic that glues well. Pre-painted figures like the Dragonborn Female Paladin may have a different plastic blend and a painted surface that can be damaged by solvents.

Check whether the broken piece is load-bearing. An arm holding a heavy weapon, a wing, or a leg that supports the figure's weight will need more than surface glue. If the break is at a thin ankle or a delicate sword tip, the repair may be too fragile for handling. In that case, consider whether a replacement part or a new figure is more practical than a repair that will keep breaking.

• Clean both surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and let them dry completely before gluing.
• Test-fit the pieces dry first to see if they align without gaps.
• Work over a tray or cloth so small parts do not disappear.

Gluing miniatures back together: which glue and how

For most plastic and resin miniatures, cyanoacrylate (CA) glue—often sold as super glue—is the go-to. Gel CA gives you a few extra seconds to position the piece, while thin CA wicks into tight joints. Apply a tiny drop to one surface, press the pieces together, and hold for 30 to 60 seconds. Do not use too much; excess glue squeezes out and can mar the paint or texture. If the joint is painted, you may need to scrape a tiny bit of paint away so the glue bonds plastic to plastic.

After gluing, let the miniature sit undisturbed for 24 hours. CA glue reaches handling strength quickly but continues to cure. For a stronger bond on a larger surface, you can use a two-part epoxy, but it is thicker and harder to apply neatly. Avoid hot glue or craft glue—they do not bond well to miniature plastics and will fail under handling.

• Use a toothpick to apply glue precisely on small parts.
• If glue fogs the paint, a tiny amount of CA accelerator can speed curing, but test on a hidden area first.
• Wipe away excess glue immediately with a damp cloth or a scrap of paper.

When and how to pin miniatures

Pinning miniatures adds a metal rod inside the joint to bear the stress. It is the best fix for heavy parts, thin joints, or any break that has failed before. You will need a hand drill with a bit slightly larger than your pin material—often a paperclip, brass rod, or a piece of a sewing pin. Drill a hole into each side of the break, about 2–3 mm deep, keeping the drill perpendicular to the surface. Dry-fit the pin to check alignment, then glue the pin into one side and the other piece onto the pin.

Pinning takes practice. If you are new to it, practice on a spare piece of sprue or a junk miniature. For small figures like the D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures - Winter Wolf, a pin may be overkill unless the leg or tail is thin and repeatedly breaking. For a larger figure like the Dungeons & Dragons Onslaught: Many-Arrows Faction Pack, which features six characters and aggressive gameplay, pinned repairs can keep your faction in play. Remember that drilling can damage paint, so plan to touch up afterward.

• Use a pin vise, not a power drill, for control.
• Leave a small gap for glue; do not force the pieces together dry.
• If the pin does not fit, enlarge the hole slightly rather than forcing it.

Repainting a repaired miniature

After the glue is fully cured, you may see a shiny seam or bare plastic. For repainting a repaired miniature, start by cleaning the area with a damp cloth. If the original paint is textured, you can replicate it with a tiny amount of acrylic medium or by stippling paint. For a pre-painted figure like the D&D Icons of the Realms Premium Figures: Dragonborn Female Paladin, match the existing colors as closely as possible. Use thin layers of acrylic paint, building up color gradually. A matte varnish over the repair will blend the sheen and protect the fix.

If the break is on an unpainted miniature, such as the Magic: The Gathering Unpainted Miniatures: Quintorius, Field Historian, you can prime the repaired area and paint it along with the rest of the figure. For a quick touch-up, a drop of matching paint on the seam is often enough. Do not use enamel paints over acrylic without testing; they can react. Always let each layer dry before adding the next.

• Use a wet palette to keep paint thin and blendable.
• Seal the repair with a brush-on matte varnish to unify the finish.
• If you cannot match the color, paint the repaired area as battle damage or a scar.

When to stop and choose another option

Not every break is worth repairing. If the piece is tiny and fragile, like a thin sword blade or a delicate antenna, a glued repair may not hold up to gameplay. If the break is in a highly visible area on a pre-painted collectible, your repair might reduce its value or appearance. In those cases, consider replacing the figure. For example, the D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures - Female Aasimar Fighter is an affordable option if you need a new fighter miniature. Similarly, the Magic: The Gathering Unpainted Miniatures: Quintorius, Field Historian is a low-cost replacement if your original is beyond repair.

If you have pinned and glued a joint twice and it still breaks, the material may be too weak or the design too thin. Stop before you damage the figure further. A replacement part or a new miniature is often cheaper than repeated repairs. For pre-painted figures, check if the manufacturer offers replacements or if a similar sculpt is available.

• If the repair fails twice, replace the figure.
• For valuable collectibles, consult a professional restorer before attempting a fix.
• Keep a few spare miniatures on hand for common roles to avoid downtime.

Repair diagnosis: symptom, cause, action, stop point

• Clean snap with no missing material: Likely cause: dropped or knocked over. Corrective action: glue with cyanoacrylate, hold 30 seconds, cure 24 hours. If the joint is load-bearing, pin it. Stop if the break is in a thin, fragile area that will not hold a pin.
• Shear break with rough edges: Likely cause: force applied at an angle. Corrective action: clean edges, test-fit, glue and pin if needed. Repaint the seam. If the pieces do not align, the repair may be visible; consider a replacement.
• Repeated break at the same joint: Likely cause: insufficient pinning or too much stress. Corrective action: drill and pin with a larger rod, then glue. If it fails again, replace the figure. Stop after two failed repairs; the material or design is too weak.

Miniatures mentioned in this guide

• D&D Icons of the Realms Premium Figures: Dragonborn Female Paladin: Each Dungeons & Dragons Premium Figure comes with a highly detailed figure that is beautifully pre-painted to complement the unique details of the miniatures. The packaging displays these gorgeous miniatures in a clear and visible format, so customers know exactly what they are getting. Because it is pre-painted, any repair should preserve the existing paint. Use a tiny amount of glue and touch up carefully to avoid ruining the finish.
• D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures - Winter Wolf: Dungeons & Dragons Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures come with highly detailed figures, primed and ready to paint out of the box. These fantastic miniatures include deep cuts for easier painting. The deep cuts make it easier to reach tight areas with glue or a pin, and since it is primed but unpainted, you can repaint the repaired area without matching a factory paint job.
• Magic: The Gathering Unpainted Miniatures: Quintorius, Field Historian: Magic: The Gathering Unpainted Miniatures come with highly-detailed figures, primed and ready to paint out of the box. These fantastic miniatures include deep cuts for easier painting. If your original figure is beyond repair, this is a low-cost replacement that you can paint to match your existing collection.

Most miniature breaks are fixable with glue, a pin, and a bit of paint. Diagnose the break first, choose the right method, and know when to stop. With these steps, you can get your figures back on the table without spending a fortune.