How to Strip Paint from Miniatures Safely (Without Melting Them)

Quick Answer

Soak your miniatures in a paint-safe stripper, scrub gently with a soft toothbrush, and rinse in warm water. Simple green cleaners and 91% isopropyl alcohol work well for most acrylic paint on plastic, while metal figures tolerate stronger solvents. The main risk is not the paint, it is the plastic: test one figure first, never mix cleaners, and never use heat or a wire brush.

A badly painted miniature is not ruined. Whether you inherited a secondhand lot, changed your color scheme, or want to practice on the same figure twice, removing paint from miniatures is a routine part of the hobby. The trick is matching the stripper to the material so you dissolve the paint without softening the plastic or erasing the detail you paid for.

This guide walks through the safe order of operations, from sorting your figures by material to the final rinse. It also covers the two mistakes that cause most damage: soaking too long in the wrong liquid and scrubbing too hard with the wrong brush. If you are repainting miniatures for a new campaign or touching up a display piece, these steps keep the model intact.

Before You Soak: Sort by Material and Paint Type

Not every miniature reacts the same way to the same liquid. Metal figures are forgiving and can handle stronger solvents, while plastic and resin need gentler chemistry. Check the base or underside of the model, and if you are unsure what it is made of, treat it as plastic. Painted pre-primed figures and older acrylic jobs usually strip faster than thick enamel or spray primer.

Work in a well-ventilated area, wear nitrile gloves, and keep a dedicated glass or plastic container with a lid. Do not use food containers, and do not strip miniatures in the kitchen sink. A small batch of three to five figures is easier to manage than a whole army, and it lets you confirm the method works before committing a favorite model.

• Separate metal from plastic and resin before any liquid touches them.
• Keep a test figure that you do not mind sacrificing to confirm the stripper.
• Label your container so no one mistakes it for a drink or a cleaning jar.

Choose a Stripper That Matches the Material

For most plastic miniatures, a concentrated simple green-style cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol is the safest starting point. Both are widely available and slow enough that you can check progress. For metal figures, harsher options like acetone or a dedicated hobby paint remover work, but keep them away from plastic bases and any resin parts.

If you are working with D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures, remember that these come primed and ready to paint out of the box, so the first layer is factory primer, not just your paint. That primer can be stubborn. A longer soak in a gentle cleaner is safer than reaching for a strong solvent, because the plastic underneath is what you are protecting.

• Start with the mildest option that could work and escalate only if needed.
• Never mix two cleaners together; the reaction can be unpredictable and unsafe.
• Keep acetone and strong solvents away from plastic bases, even on metal figures.

Soak, Check, and Repeat Instead of Waiting Longer

Submerge the figures fully and put the lid on. Check after 30 minutes for light acrylic paint, and every few hours for heavier coats. Most plastic-safe soaks need anywhere from a few hours to overnight. If the paint is still firm after that, put it back and check again later rather than leaving it for days.

Long soaks are where most damage happens. Plastic can soften, details can blur, and glued joints can fail. A useful checkpoint is the toothpick test: gently press a spot on the paint. If it wrinkles or lifts, it is ready. If it feels like a hard shell, it needs more time, not more scrubbing.

• Set a timer so you actually check the soak instead of forgetting it.
• If the figure feels slippery or rubbery, pull it out immediately and rinse.
• Do not pour used stripper down the drain; follow local disposal rules.

Scrub Gently with the Right Brush

Use a soft or medium toothbrush, and work in small circles under a trickle of warm water. Let the bristles do the work. For stubborn primer in deep cuts, a wooden toothpick reaches crevices without gouging the surface. Avoid wire brushes, metal picks, and anything abrasive, which scratch detail and create places for future paint to pool.

If you are stripping a figure with fine details, such as a D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures: Earth Elemental, slow down around the textured areas. The deep cuts that make these figures easier to paint also trap loosened paint. A second short soak is almost always better than aggressive scrubbing on a delicate model.

• Scrub over a bowl or sink strainer so small parts do not disappear down the drain.
• Replace your toothbrush when the bristles splay; worn brushes scratch more.
• Never use a wire brush or rotary tool on a plastic miniature.

Rinse, Dry, and Prep for Repainting

Rinse in warm, not hot, water until the surface feels clean and not slick. Hot water can warp thin plastic parts. Pat dry with a paper towel and let the figure air dry completely, ideally overnight, before you prime or paint. Any residual moisture or cleaner film will weaken your new primer coat.

Once dry, inspect the model under good light. If a few patches of old paint remain in recesses, that is usually fine, as long as the surface is smooth and the detail is intact. Re-prime with a thin coat and you are ready to start repainting miniatures with a clean slate.

• Warm water only; hot water can bend swords, cloaks, and thin bases.
• Let the figure dry fully before priming to avoid a cloudy or flaky finish.
• A soft old toothbrush is fine, but keep a fresh one for final cleaning.

Safe Stripping Steps at a Glance

1. Sort and test one figure: Separate metal from plastic and resin, then pick one model you can afford to lose as your test piece. Checkpoint: if the test figure survives, the method is safe for the rest of the batch.
2. Pick a material-safe stripper: Use a simple green cleaner or 91% isopropyl alcohol for plastic, and reserve acetone or strong solvents for bare metal only. Mistake to avoid: using one strong solvent on everything and melting plastic bases.
3. Soak in short, checked intervals: Submerge the figure, lid the container, and check every 30 minutes to a few hours until the paint wrinkles. Mistake to avoid: leaving figures in for days, which softens plastic and weakens glued joints.
4. Scrub with a soft toothbrush: Work in small circles under warm water, using a wooden toothpick for deep cuts and recesses. Mistake to avoid: wire brushes and metal picks, which scratch detail permanently.
5. Rinse warm, dry fully, then prime: Rinse until the surface is not slick, pat dry, and let the figure air dry overnight before priming. Mistake to avoid: priming too soon, which traps moisture and causes flaking.

Store Products That Fit This Process

• D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures: Earth Elemental: Dungeons & Dragons Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures come with highly detailed figures, primed and ready to paint out of the box, with deep cuts for easier painting. The factory primer and deep cuts mean this figure needs a gentle soak and a toothpick in the crevices rather than hard scrubbing, or you risk blurring the texture.
• D&D Nolzur's Marvelous Miniatures - Female Human Cleric: This figure is fully compatible with Acrylicos Vallejo paints and includes deep cuts for easier painting, and the packaging displays the miniature in a clear and visible format. A single character figure like this is a good low-risk test subject for your first strip, and the clear packaging lets you confirm the sculpt before you buy.
• Pathfinder Deep Cuts Wave 14 Bundle: This bundle includes Annis Hag & Green Hag, Blue Dragon, Female Halfling Cleric, Male Human Champion, Male Halfling Wizard, Nymph & Dryad, Female Human Champion, Female Human Rogue, and Male Elf Sorcerer. A multi-figure bundle gives you several models to practice on, so you can test your stripper on one before treating the rest of the set.

Stripping paint is a controlled soak, not a battle. Match the cleaner to the material, check often, scrub softly, and let the figure dry completely before you prime again. If you want a low-stakes model to practice on, a single Nolzur's figure or a small Deep Cuts bundle gives you room to learn the process without risking a centerpiece.